Monthly Archives: March 2021

  • 348. Top Tips Tuesday - Spars, Out Of Sight, Out Of Mind

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    As an old salt or (as Jen pointed out when proof reading) a very, very ancient and grumpy old salt who remembers the days when every yacht was lifted out each autumn at the local yacht club, laid up ashore on a mixture of pit props and 45 gallon oil drums, this was of course after the rigging had been disconnected, boom removed and then the mast lifted out! These days with the majority of boats marina berthed and hard standing often somewhat limited, it's a case of out for a short period of time for annual wash and brush inc antifoul/change anodes and if it's on hard standing for six months or so on a steel boatyard cradle, the mast stays in situ! If you are fortunate enough to have the mast at ground level and not ‘tangled’ up on a boatyard mast rack its easy peasy to give it a thorough check over, however if your spar is still reaching for the stars please do not neglect because it’s out of sight and out of mind, incidentally more on the subject of a mast inspection from a bosuns chair later! Thanks to the Royal Northumberland Yacht Club for their permission to use the above photo. If you are cruising the North East coast the RNYC sailing directionsare an invaluable source of information.

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    Start at the tip of the mast with the masthead light. Check it’s secure and the lens isn’t suffering from UV damage, check cables for chafe where they exit the light and enter the mast. Remove the lens, then bulbs and make sure all the contacts are clean by using the excellent specialist fast drying contact cleaner. If they are the filament type bulb our recommendation is to replace regardless (keep old as a spare) or seriously consider going for replacement LED bulbs, a lot less current drain and almost bullet proof in a heavy beat to windward!  However, remember you shouldn’t put a white LED behind a coloured lens, only use a coloured LED bulb. After replacing the bulbs, spray all electrical connections with Boeshield and then clean the lens both inside and out. Before replacing the now clean lens, you must of course check the lights are working (our Top Tip is to use an old redundant small 12 volt alarm battery and connect to the wires where they exit at the bottom of the mast, it’s much easier than lugging round a big heavy 110 amp hour beast). Once satisfied, reassemble. If the light has suffered from water ingress last season and you are happy that it's still up to the job, make sure that any seals are intact however a smear of Lanocote will help keep moisture out.

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    Check the condition and security of the mast head VHF aerial or combined VHF/wind indicator (if the Windex is becoming brittle through UV damage consider replacing). Incidentally there is a new Windex on the market with a ‘seagull striker’ fitted to warn birds away from landing! See image above. Examine carefully any other antennas like the AIS or Active radar target enhancer and of course don’t forget the condition of any cablesespecially where they enter or exit the mast. Assuming mast head wind speed and direction are stored below deck whilst the mast is down, check manufacturer's handbook for information on lubrication and maintenance. Clean contacts as above and once again spray with Boeshield after refitting. As for me, I prefer to leave the mast head transducer off when the mast is being refitted as often the ‘small print’ of a boatyard’s terms and conditions does not cover you for accidental damage, yes it's a mast climb to fit however replacement transducers can set you back over £400-00! Satisfied with your mast head gear? Now turn your attention to the mast head and check main and topping lift sheavesfor damage or wear.image

    Incidentally alloy sheaves running on stainless axles are notorious for seizing up through corrosion. On some masts, especially older Selden (Kemp), it’s impossible to replace the sheave without taking the masthead fitting out of the spar. Clean and then lubricate with a ‘dry’ lubricant don’t use grease or light oil as both attract grit and can damage sheaves especially those made from Tufnol (recognised by it’s brown colour/fabric weave) Next check the condition of the forestay and backstay attachments, draw the clevis pins out, examine them for wear and at the same time check that the ‘hole’ that they pass through has not elongated. If OK, replace and secure with new split pins, not rings, and make sure that they are properly opened out!image

    If you have been unfortunate enough to have suffered a halyard wrap last season, pay particular attention to where the wire strands exit the swaged terminal/talurit splice. Flex the wire gently to check for any sign of broken strands, even if it’s only one broken strand replace. If the forestay shows signs of birdcaging (wire opening up) you should also replace the forestay without question. Your spinnaker/asymmetric halyard block can take a hammering lack of articulation can cause issues such as damaged or buckled side plates on sheaves which can lead to halyards jamming.

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    Working your way down the mast, if an older rig stainless tangs were used for the attaching of standing rigging and if there are signs of corrosion behind the fitting (white ‘crust’ around or bubbling from the fitting) we would suggest  drilling out the old rivets, inspection of the mast wall behind and, if satisfied, replacing with new monel ones after you have used a barrier such as Duralac or Tef-Gel between the two dissimilar metals. However make sure you drift the ferrous metal mandril head out so it drops down inside the mast! If a fractional or similar rig, remove the combined genoa and spinnaker halyard box, check for stress cracks, worn sheaves and then clean and lubricate as above. Then check the security of the cast alloy spreader brackets, paying particular attention to all rivets. Inspect the casting for any signs of damage such as fracture of the alloy. Turning to the spreader tips, if the rigging is still attached to the spreaders release the spreader end clamp and then check for a broken strand that may be hidden behind the plastic or leather spreader boot. Once the clamp has been slackened move the tip up or down and flex the wire gently. If not fitted, to protect your head sail perhaps fit a pair of leather spreader boots to prevent chafe once you have satisfied yourself that everything is OK. Steaming and deck flood lights are often neglected, check and service as per your masthead lights. If there is a Blipper or similar reflector check all fastenings, like wise if there is a radar dome.

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    Check the gooseneck and base of mast kicker bracket for wear, replace if badly worn, replace any worn nylon spacer washers. Look out for any horizontal cracks around halyard exit slots, this is especially important on fractional rigs set up with high amounts of pre-bend, consult your rigger if any are found. Keel stepped spars should have their deck coats/seals checked as it’s impossible to replace them without lifting the mast out again. If a keel stepped mast, Spartite is an excellent product for sealing the mast/deck not cheap but the best on the market. Make sure that the mast track on a keel stepped mast has a foam or silicon rubber gate to prevent water running below deck. At this stage don’t forget to run  your eye over the rest of the rigging, examine all turnbuckles for damage, if the threaded lower stud is bent replace and pay particular attention to any rigging screw that is not toggled as they do not articulate and are liable to more stress. Make sure the threads on your adjusters are not showing any sign of stretching or galling!

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    Wash out and lubricate (as per manufacturer’s instructions) halyard swivels and drum bearings on headsail reefing gear. The Selden Furlex unit should be lubricated with their grease. Pay particular attention to the joints in the headsail foil, if slight movement there is a danger of mis-alignement. Consequences; the sail jamming whilst hoisting and you may run the risk of tearing the luff tape. You may also end up with some rather nasty stains on the sail opposite the suspect joints caused by fretting of the alloy. If you have movement it may be a loose rivet or fastening that’s missing or a worn jointing piece. Consult the manufacturer’s manual for details on how to remove and replace. Foils may be cleaned by washing with soap and water. A scrap of luff tape may be run up the foil to scrub inside the grooves. If lubrication is required, spray a thin coat of McLube SailKote on sail luff tapes away from boat deck. Check the end stop at the top of the foil is secure and that the bearing (just inside the top of the foil is still round) if its oval replace!

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    If you haven’t already removed and washed your halyards do so. Do not wash at a high temperature or use a biological washing powder as it can damage some polyester ropes, preferably leave to soak in water for a couple of days prior to washing. Don’t tumble dry as the heat will damage most synthetic ropes, instead hang out to dry then leave in the airing cupboard for a few days. If using a washing machine place any shackles inside a pair of socks to prevent damage to the drum on the machine and keep the other half happy! Check all eye splices, worn or damaged halyards as shown below should be replaced. Wire halyards that are found to have spikes (once again see below) are fatigued and should be replaced as they are on the point of failure, consider replacing with Dyneema, Spectra or similar ultra low stretch materials as it is cost effective and usually has a longer life span.

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    When re-stepping your mast replace all split pins that secure clevis pins or lock turnbuckles, mouse shackles with Monel seizing wire, lightly grease all turnbuckle threads with Lanocote. Consider fitting turnbuckle covers adding shroud or guard rail rollers or at the very least tape over the split pins in the turnbuckles with self amalgamating tape after setting up your rig which all help to reduce chafe on sails and prevent damage to crews clothing and boots. Do not under any circumstances tape the complete body of the turnbuckle, water can be so easily trapped see below!

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    Mast still up? Climbing a mast using the power of an Ewincher to get you aloft is now a joy however you must read and inwardly digest Spinlock's excellent article on ‘Going Aloft’. Remember always climb on two halyards that you have thoroughly inspected. Spar and rigging inspection with the mast still up will take a lot longer as it has to be carried out from a bosuns chair but it shouldn’t be neglected. If, for whatever reason, you have not removed the rig this year, inspect whilst swinging from halyards and if necessary, budget for its removal next year. If I am climbing, and I still do so on a regular basis even at my advanced age, their Mast Harness isn’t the most comfortable but without a doubt the one that I feel most secure in! Incidentally, if I ever have to go aloft alone, then I use the Topclimber mast climbing kit. All the above still applies however it will take a lot longer and obviously it’s more weather dependent!

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    Now for the boom, check the inboard end of the boom casting for wear, check rivets are sound and if any jammers/pulleys are part of the assembly, that any sheaves are free running and not chipped and when the cam lever is rotated they will hold the load from reef and outhaul lines! Check the kicking strap slide (if alloy) for wear from the stainless shackle/attachment point on the strut/strap assembly. Make sure any fastenings are man enough for the job and that the slide is not creeping towards the mast. Examine the boom in this area for any stress cracks and corrosion from stainless fastenings if used to secure. Next check the reefing lines take off attachment eyes are secure and then pull through the lines for signs of chafe. Make sure that when you come to fit the main back on the boom, you reeve the reef line under the boom first to ease the load on the fitting! If the main sheet pulley blocks are secured mid boom as against attached to the end casting examine as per kicking strap slide. Next the outboard boom casting, check the condition of the pulleys then check (if end boom sheeting) that the shackle securing the mainsheet block still has plenty of alloy left on the attachment casting. If you still have a wire outhaul check for spiking in the lay of the wire and if any are found replace. Reef lines, especially in single line systems, can be a source of friction. If fluffed up, consider changing as the difference when putting a reef in can be the difference between chalk and cheese.

    Finally if you haven’t already done so, now is the time to give the mast and boom a wipe over with Yachticon's Aluminium Polish and Wax, it’s a mixture of polymers, waxes and polishing agents for cleaning and protecting alloy spars!

  • 347. Top Tips Tuesday - Check Those Deck Fittings Out!

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    GUARD RAILS AND STANCHIONS:

    How often do we grab guard rails without a moments thought, even though they are ‘staring us in the face’ throughout the season, stanchions and guard rail wires are often items that are overlooked during pre-season checks. Stanchions should be checked for security; make sure the base is fastened securely to the deck and/or toe rail, and of course there is no movement and ALL fastenings are in place. An unstable base is not only dangerous (it could possibly lead to a man overboard situation) but the mechanical fastenings could be that elusive  source of a leak into the interior and often the ‘damp patch’ is some distance away! If  the stanchion is secure but there is evidence of water leaking into the interior of the boat, as a stop gap you could apply sealant round the base however the correct sure fire way to sort is to remove the stanchion and re-fix as per our suggestions below. If the base is found to be loose, remove, clean and re-fit using the appropriate sealant, my recommendation is to go for a polysulphide, such as Arbokol 1000 or Geocel 201 as against a silicone sealant.

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    Before refastening a stanchion or any other deck fitting, make sure you remove any old sealant using Debond Marine Formula. Degrease the fitting and deck using acetone or similar and, if the hole is not countersunk to accept the sealant do so. Finally, mask both the deck and the base so any excess sealant that is squeezed out as you tighten down can easily be cleaned up. However, when bolting down make sure that you don’t squeeze ALL the sealant out, tighten, allow the sealant to set then go for a final turn on the spanner next day!

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    Should there be an issue with the integrity of the deck click here for further guidance.

    Check stainless tubular type stanchions where they are drilled (for mid height guard wire to pass through) for signs of stress cracks round the hole. Make sure the stanchion is well secured into its base either by bolt and lock nut or by split pin, however if an alloy stanchion is being secured with a stainless fastening you must use a barrier such as Duralac or TefGel to prevent an electrolytic reaction, same if you are using stainless stanchions in aluminium bases isolate between the two dissimilar metals. Terminating guard rails at the pull or push pit, I prefer not to use split rings but beware split pins can be very sharp. They should be covered in self amalgamating tape or have a blob of clear sealant applied to prevent snagging on footwear, foulies, sails etc and of course skin!

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    Guard rail wires should be carefully examined for broken strands, especially where the wire exits the swage or Talurit termination and where they pass through stanchions. You will have to slacken each wire and draw it through the stanchion to fully inspect. Flex the wire gently at the start of a termination or where the wire has passed through a stanchion, if any broken or worn strands are found they MUST be replaced. It’s certainly not recommended and highly dangerous to just tape over them! PVC covered stainless steel guard rail wires (banned some years ago for use on offshore race boats) can hide broken or corroded strands, especially where the PVC cover butts up against swage or Talurit terminations. Moisture and a lack of oxygen provide the ideal scenario for crevice corrosion to go unnoticed. Any signs of rust in these areas can be a pointer to wire failure through weakening of the internal wire strands – if rust stains are in evidence, replace without question, preferably with uncovered stainless wire.

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    Ensure pelican hooks in gate assemblies are free to operate, preferably single handed (leather pulls are worth fitting, saves you fumbling with cold wet hands) and that the piston fully engages when closed.

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    Lubricate same with a dry film sprayBoeshield T9 or similar. Incidentally, if your method of tensioning the guard rails is a cord lashing (which is our recommendation as should you need to 'drop the wire' it's an awful lot quicker cutting the cord) by the pushpit, we would suggest that this is replaced on a regular basis. However I believe current thinking is to leave the guard rail intact and bring the man overboard over the guard rails! Check that all the clevis pinsrings or split pins in the assembly are secure and either tape over using self amalgamating tape to avoid snagging, or cover with those rather nice leather boots as shown below.

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    If small people or dogs etc are going to be found on board this season and netting is already fitted, examine for signs of degrading through UV exposure and check it is secured to both guard rail wires and toe rail. There’s no point in fitting it if your precious cargo can roll under the lower edge! Remember that saying 'there is no such thing as a free lunch'. Cheaper netting is welded whilst the stronger and, of course, more expensive netting is knotted!

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    Once you have finished your inspection of guardrails and stanchions, check the security of your bolt on accessories such as the liferaft cradlehorseshoe bracket and while you are in that area, are any electrical cables passing through the pull or pushpit showing signs of chafe?

    JACKSTAYS:

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    Whether wire or webbing they should be inspected. Check wire termination, especially PVC covered as per guard rail wires, for corrosion. Webbing jackstays should have their stitching checked for integrity, if any nicks or cuts are found in the webbing or if more than 3-4 years old they should be replaced owing to UV degradation of the material and the stitching. If replacing wire jackstays, consider changing to webbing as an alternative, it is kinder to decks and doesn’t roll under ones foot.

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    Mooring cleats, Fairleads, bollardseye bolts or u-bolts, like stanchions, should be checked thoroughly for movement. Should you suspect a deck fitting as a source of a leak, as we said before the application of a bead of mastic round the edge is only a short term solution! Any shackles securing a block or similar should all be checked for wear and crevice corrosion then moused with either monel seizing wire or cable ties for added security. However, if using ties and they have been snipped, watch out for razor sharp edges, use a drop of silicone sealant to cover. Water in the fuel last season, was it a 'dodgy' refill or is the fuel filler cap nitrile seal past its sell by date? Spare seals are available for the Easy filler caps and some other makes, however if sourcing a seal don't forget diesel rots neoprene in double quick time.

    BLOCKS, TRACK AND CARS:

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    Blocks, especially ball or roller types, should be given a good rinse with fresh water from a hose to remove all traces of grit. Lubricate ball bearing blocks using Harken’s OneDrop Ball Bearing Conditioner or if plain bearing McLube. Don’t use grease as it will attract and hold grit which makes a very effective cutting compound causing wear. DO NOT oil or grease any Tufnol based block or fitting as it causes the material to swell and will seize sheaves onto pins. Any sheaves that are found to have wear between axle and the sheave (either sideways or vertical play) or nicks in the edges of sheaves which will cause damage to sheets or halyards should be replaced. Check all cam jammers on mainsheet block systems if the teeth are worn or the springs have lost their power replace. Rinse all mainsheet and headsail cars especially those using ball systems using fresh water, inspect for wear and lubricate as per blocks. If fitted with plunger stops ensure these are free, lubricate with light oil and make sure they locate correctly in the track system. Check all track fastenings for integrity and make sure all track end stops are securely fastened, any rubber pads within the stops should be replaced if worn.

    WINCHES (HALYARDS AND SHEETS):

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    Winches should be stripped and cleaned of all grease. If the grease is hardened it may be necessary to use paraffin and a de-greasing agent. Inspect for wear, especially pawls (rounding of the edges and cracking), check for play in all bearings and especially those bearings between drum and the gearbox, if drum can be rocked excessively the caged roller (or plain) bearing is most likely worn. Re-assemble using winch grease, don’t use the white stern tube grease as it isn’t suitable for the purpose, and don’t smother parts heavily, a light coating will suffice. Keep grease away from pawls as it will make them stick, only apply a drop of light pawl oil. Replace all pawl springs as a matter of course, a pawl that doesn’t engage through a broken or worn spring subjects the other pawls to overloading which can lead to damage. On self tailing winches check the rope gripper on the top of the winch for signs of wear, if worn replace. A manufacturer’s service kit is recommended as it usually contains most parts that are required for a full service together with an exploded diagram and instructions for stripping and rebuilding the winch. Ex-Geordie Mark Gardiner who works for Harken often jetting off round the world to service Volvo RTW winches and the like some years ago kindly wrote an excellent article on winch servicing, click here to access. Rope clutches, often neglected, should also be washed thoroughly and checked for holding power, service kits are certainly available for Spinlock, Easy Marine and Barton, cams and base plates are a source of wear. Other makes of clutches please check with our staff for availability of service kits/spare parts.

    HEADSAIL FURLING A REEFING SYSTEMS:

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    A good hosing out of both the upper swivel and the lower drum unit will remove grit and salt deposits, check both items revolve freely on their bearings, if not rinse again, DO NOT attempt to strip swivels or drum units especially older Furlex units as you will almost certainly lose some of the bearings and possibly damage the retaining circlip(s) during stripping, you may also find it impossible to re assemble the unit without the use of a special press, seek advice regarding this. Only grease systems according to the manufacturers recommendations, some systems use grease, others recommend a dry type lubricant such as McLube. Check the integrity of the furling line especially the knot that secures it to the drum and most importantly are the stanchion leads, if of the sheave type, running freely and check for flats on the sheave. If you haven't introduced some 'friction' when unfurling the genoa to prevent a riding turn on the drum why not consider a Harken or similar make of ratchet block complete with becket (elastic tied to becket/guardrail to avoid it damage deck or itself).

    WINDLASS:

    Last but not least don’t forget the windlass, out of sight out of mind and you certainly don’t want it to fail if you have to up anchor in a hurry! Despite having a great bunch of guys with a shed-load of expert knowledge windlass servicing is not our forte so I make no apologies for reproducing the following maintenance schedule courtesy of Lofrans. A. Clean all external surfaces and hidden points with fresh water and remove all salt layers. B. Grease the rotating parts, particularly, the main shaft threads and clutch cones. Check for evidence of corrosion and mechanical stresses. A coat of Boeshield T9 is recommended. C. Remove and clean the terminals of the electric motor. Coat terminals with Vaseline before re-assembly, then when everything is back in place, spray with Boeshield T9. Test the voltage drop at the terminals. D. Replace all gaskets. E. Remove the anchor windlass from the deck with a little help from Debond, clean all salt deposits and the like from under the base and seal with polysulphide again.image

  • 346. Top Tips Tuesday - A Bit Of Spit And Polish

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    WASH:

    Gone are the days when folks used to polish the paintwork of their car on a regular basis (well these days I certainly dont!) however this is not the case with my gelcoat finish. Topsides most certainly do benefit from at least one application per year (or preferably 2 in my case as the boat lives in Greece) of a good quality wax such as Meguiar's Flagship Premium Wax. Having said that If you have topsides in a dark blue, red or green gelcoat they do fade and chalk at a quicker rate than the pale colours so applying a coat of wax on a regular basis not only seals the surface from ingress of dirt but also protects against UV degradation. To get the best result and protect your investment, we recommend that you first wash the surface down to remove any surface contaminants such as salt crystals and boatyard dust to avoid scratching the surface once you start polishing. One of our favourites for preparing surfaces prior to polishing is Yachticon GRP supercleaner. If after carrying out that task you then discover you have some minor gelcoat damage that requires attention, now is the time to tackle this.

    GELCOAT REPAIRS:

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    To prepare the crack or scratch I use a Dremel with a fine cutting ‘blade’. If however you don’t have access to one of these excellent tools a sharp Stanley knife blade can be used to enlarge fine cracks. Then wash down the surface with acetone. Use MagicEzy 9 Second Chip Fix for ‘sorting’ minor nicks, chips and gouges. This excellent product is available in 11 colours (inc five shades of white) however to ensure you get a good colour match when tackling a gelcoat repair we suggest you use some fine wet and dry, say 1200 grade, next to the area that is to be treated as over the years the gelcoat will have faded slightly and by gently removing the top surface you can get back to the original.

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    Getting the correct coloured gelcoat can be a pain, should you however need a larger quantity of gelcoat in the first instance, we always recommend in the first instance you contact the original boatbuilder or importer of the boat whilst armed with the hull build number to see if they can supply. Once you have ascertained the correct match and prepared the surface to accept ‘catalysed’ gelcoat, apply with a soft brush leaving the material slightly proud. Carefully apply a piece of clear Sellotape or cling film over the gelcoat, this will prevent the gelcoat drying tacky. When set remove the tape and carefully sand to shape using a sanding block with 400 then 600 and finally 1200 wet/dry paper and plenty of water. Do this carefully so as not to damage or rub through the surrounding gelcoat. The repair can then be polished to a mirror finish using Farecla or a similar compound and then to seal the surface a good quality wax polish such as 3M marine ultra performance wax.

    POLISHING:

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    After any repairs are completed we recommend that you use a mild cleaner such as Meguiar's Colour Restorer which will safely remove light oxidation and most stains from the gelcoat either by hand or machine. By using a machine to do the hard work the task will be completed quicker than buffing by hand using a 100% cotton polishing cloth. If using a machine we recommend a variable speed machine like the Shurhold Dual Action polisher with either a microfibre or foam polishing bonnet. Keep the speed slow and don’t stay in one area as it is all too easy to overheat and damage gelcoat. Don’t be tempted to use an electric drill with a polishing bonnet, they are usually too high a speed and can result in burn damage to the gelcoat. If there is no power available, the OrbiPro Cordless Orbital Tool is a useful investment, particularly as you can rent it to your neighbours when they see the fabulous finish you have achieved. An oxidation remover will bring life back into a hull, however, if the topsides are very chalky and dull (as mentioned above red, green & blue gelcoat are particularly susceptible) you can start with a coarse paper 200-300 working up to 800 or 1000 grade, or after using the more aggressive grades spread compound evenly onto the hull in areas of about a square metre so it doesn’t dry. Work with the polisher in lines. While working, don’t place your polishing mop on the ground or on the plank you are working on; one speck of grit on its surface can have disastrous results on your topsides! When applying cleaner or oxidation remover always work on a cool surface in the shade.

    BRIGHTENING AND RESTORING YOUR TOPSIDES:

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    Don’t try to polish or rub down rust or black berry bird droppings marks from your decks or hull, the stains can be deep into the gelcoat. Instead try using a stain remover containing oxalic acid such as Y10 or Davis FSR, either should bleach out the stain. Y10 was used on the above Contessa 32 to great effect. After thoroughly cleaning with either the mild cleaner or the oxidation remover the surface must then be sealed using a good quality uv resistant wax, for best results apply at least 2 coats with a day between each coat to allow the wax to harden. Applying the second coat too soon will only remove the first! For GRP cabin sides and other smooth gelcoat surfaces the technique is the same, however for cleaning and removing oxidation on moulded in nonslip I always use Vistal Hard Surface CleanerVistal can also be used to help bring a sparkle back to dull painted or varnished surfaces; its also great for brightening your stainless pull/pushpit, alloy stanchions other metal surfaces and of course fenders.

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    LAST:

    If after lockdown you are greeted with your pride and joy looking rather ‘green around the gills’ and aren’t in a position through work or family commitments to tackle the shades of green look, why not purchase some Wet & Forget, dilute then spray it on and leave, over a period of time it will lift the green off as if by magic with no effort!

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  • 345. Top Tip Tuesday - The A-Z of Antifouling

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    CLEANING:

    Make sure your hull is clean and ALL traces of grease and marine growth have been removed, if necessary wash the hull with a detergent or a degreaser so as to remove any contaminants. If you have any stubborn remnants of barnacles – or the white calcium deposit left after pressure washing they can be easily removed using Boat Bottom Cleaner however make sure you wear gloves and eye protection when using this product as it is quite aggressive.

    PREPARATION:

    Lightly abrade the old antifouling with 120 grit paper or even 80 if in a poor condition, aways use wet. Make sure you wear a maskgloves and eye protectionantifouling not only kills marine growth, if tempted to dry sand any dust produced can create severe respiratory problems and irritation to humans. After rubbing down make sure all the slurry is washed off with fresh water.

    If you are changing to a different make/type of antifouling make sure it is compatible with the one you are covering (see compatibility chart at the end of this article). If not, or if you’re unsure of the existing antifouling, apply an appropriate barrier coat such as International Primocon or one recommended by your chosen antifouling manufacturer. All loose antifouling must be removed. It's pointless applying A/F over an unsound existing one, if it is just small ‘loose’  patches you should be able to feather the edges  using your 120/80 grit and it will not show through the new coating. Spot prime these these areas with the barrier coat followed by antifouling before giving the full hull a coating. If you have a build up of a number of seasons applications of antifouling you should perhaps consider removing these. Not a pleasant job but worthwhile as it will save you future problems! This can be done by just using a scraper, although it is often easier to use one of the gelcoat friendly antifouling removers or Peelaway – don’t be tempted to use standard paint removers as this may adversely affect your hull's gelcoat. Be careful not to damage any underlying epoxy coatings. When you have removed the old antifouling, if your hull hasn’t had a protective coating of epoxy it may well be worthwhile coating with International Gelshield 200  or consider the Seajet alternative (can be used at lower temperatures) to give protection against osmosis, however as always you must abide by the manufacturer’s instructions regarding temperature, mixing, application and over-coating materials.

    STEEL KEELS:

    Steel keels should be rust free. Don't use a grinder it often leaves the surface ‘polished’ instead consider using a Tercoo Rotary Blaster then clean and coat with something like 4-5 coats International Primocon (first coat thinned) or similar will give good protection. Observe of course the recommended over coating times for the product you are using.

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    ALLOY HULLS, OUTDRIVES ETC:

    If you have just purchased an alloy boat please note you must NOT use an antifouling containing copper, likewise alloy outdrives and outboard legs. Use something like International’s Trilux or the like and remember if antifouling a GRP hull fitted with outdrives or outboards and it’s a copper based product that you are going to apply, it is recommended that you leave at least a 25mm gap around the unit.

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    FILLING:

    If you have to fill any underwater surfaces as a result of hitting an underwater object or over enthusiastic use of a scraper, do not under any circumstances use a polyester filler, use only an epoxy based one such as Epifanes epoxy filler.

    MASKING UP:

    When masking water lines make sure you use the ‘Blue’ 14 day tape product which not only gives a good crisp line but can also be easily removed on completion of the paint job. If you use standard paper masking tape ensure you remove it immediately you have finished painting as if it gets damp through moisture in the atmosphere or rain its a sod to remove! However if you have had the misfortune to leave this style of tape in place and find it impossible to remove Marine Formula's Debond is an excellent product to assist.

    PROTECTION:

    Wear disposable gloves and eye protection when applying antifouling as splashes on hands and face irritate the skin and using thinners to remove them can make it worse by driving the material into the pores making it difficult if not impossible to remove. If you end up with dust on your hands don't use hot water to wash as its use opens up the pores of your skin! A ‘throwaway’ overall is what I use for protection and will last long enough to complete the job if your careful slipping into/out of it!

    APPLICATION:

    Apply the correct number of coats of antifouling as recommended by the manufacturer – usually a minimum of two, don't thin to make it cover more! On high pressure areas on your hull (leading edge of keel, rudder etc) they can benefit with the addition of at least one if not more patch coats before painting the whole hull. As stated above do not be tempted to thin the antifouling, you are diluting the active ingredient! Use a roller as it will give a better coverage and finish than using a brush. If using a plastic paint tray place it / cover it in a plastic carrier bag before use, not only will you be able to use it again, many solvents in antifouling melt plastic paint trays leaving you with a sticky mess to roll onto your hull!

    Do not paint over your transducer with conventional antifouling, use a product on the market called Propspeed Foul Free. It's not cheap but nor is running aground! To the best of my knowledge it's the only product recommended by Airmar who manufacture transducers for most of the well known makes of depth sounder.

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    Specific Boot topping paints such as International ‘Trilux’ or Hempel Waterline Boot Top perform better than standard antifouling as they tend to be of the ‘hard’ type, are stronger and will stand up to the occasional scrub during the season.

    Propellers should be cleaned and polished with fine emery cloth or wet and dry. If you are in a heavy fouling area coat with Sea Jet Peller Clean or International ‘Prop-o-Drev’ this will help keep the prop clean whilst a coating of Propshield will be of benefit in lesser fouling areas.

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    Anodes, remove if possible before antifouling, if there is still 2/3rds left and you’re leaving them in situ, either mask off or coat with soap before you start work, antifouling on the anode surface will prevent it working!

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  • 344. Top Tips Tuesday - I'll Drink To That

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    A drink after a 'hard' day on the water onboard Hindsight is my idea of heaven, be it whilst at anchor, squeezed stern to the village quay, tied up in Gouvia or the new Lefkas marina or ashore watching the world go by in a quayside taverna, assuming of course we will be allowed to fly this summer! Having said that, during past lockdowns especially with last year’s hot early summer, I did feel my weekly consumption of alcohol was creeping upwards! As a result after Christmas past, I did participate for the first time ever in ‘Dry January.’ I did manage to get through without sipping the demon drink, however of the three non alcoholic gins that I had purchased in anticipation and tried during my month of abstinence none set my taste buds alight! As for a thirst quenching ‘beer’ I do now enjoy a non alcoholic Beck’s on Hindsight whilst anchored up at lunchtime. Now back at home, however, I have been advised by a reliable source that Lucky Saint is worth a punt but any other suggestions from avid readers would be gratefully appreciated!

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    As our Mystery has a tiller and not a steering wheel pedestal so far we haven’t had use for a very handy Ocean Clip-ON Can Holder however Jenny (peering over my shoulder correcting my grammar and punctuation) has just pointed out that they would make a very handy addition to the port and starboard ‘cocktail seats’ that she calls them that we have fitted to the inside edge of the pushpit!

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    If the prospect of permanently attaching a cup holder to a vertical surface in the cockpit doesn’t appeal, consider the TableCoaster non-slip coaster which holds bottles or cups. It’s great for securing bottles, cans and mugs at sea. It has an ultra-sticky base that can be used over and over!

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    Shards of glass on a cockpit floor are not a good idea so we do have on Hindsight some acrylic break resistant tableware, it looks like glass but doesn’t have the fragility! And I can attest to that, having on a couple of occasions sent a tumbler flying (not under the influence of the demon drink I hasten to add!) and it survived but sadly not the gin (alcoholic this time), Fever Tree tonic, the slice of lime and of course the ice. Cheers!

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    I haven’t fitted any of the above in our yacht's cockpit as yet but I do like the look of the flexible cup holders that Andy sells online. Nice and soft if you fall against them in a lumpy sea or have to do a crash tack whilst beating up the Meganisi channel (serves me right for ‘relaxing’ with a novice on the helm). In my defence we were on starboard but I should have been keeping a better lookout! ‘Once bitten twice shy?’ They are a bit like a winch handle pocket in so much that they are moulded from soft light weight PVC. They come complete with stainless self tapping screws and have been advised they are easy to fit!

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    As the blurb says the Muggi was "originally conceived by yachtsman for use when sailing in rough seas, Muggi is a new and safe way to carry hot and cold drinks". Like the above cup holder I haven’t used one at sea, however we do use one to transport the morning coffee to the sail loft, the carpet tiles downstairs have certainly benefitted from one being used as well as the steep stairs up to the loft. No more suspicious stains!

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    Our unbreakable stackable mugs, not only are they a space saver but are bullet proof. As the packaging states on the box of four they are strong and hygienic perfect for hot or cold drinks aboard your boat. They are also labelled so no chance of incurring the skipper’s wrath by picking up and drinking.

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    Down below on our Mystery which does have limited storage space if we are having an early morning cuppa or an evening after dinner coffee and glass of port and we are relaxing on the saloon berths, Jen and I often deploy these rather nifty neat folding cup holders. Now you see them now you dont!

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